January 15 2020 - Skin Care 101
The stunning anti-ageing alternative to retinol31 January 2019
Retinol could be the most touted 'anti-ageing' ingredient. Articles detailing how it 'works' abound, though it seems that those saying this are either 20-something beauty editors, people who sell retinol or those who get commissions by recommending it.
Originally, retinol was only prescribed for severe acne, dermatologists now prescribe it to patients eager to reduce lines and improve skin firmness.
But retinol is very harsh and is a drug with side effects that range from causing permanent redness and hyperpigmentation to feotal damage during pregnancy.
The stunning and gentle alternative to harsh retinol is natural skin care that works for anti-ageing.
At Simplicité we think it's safer to rebuild skin to looking 10 and more years younger with nutritive products rather than just temporarily smoothing skin surface.
Personally we've only ever seen two people who had good results from using retinol and they must have pretty tough skin. Because the internet is full of complaints about terrible outcomes from using retinol - months of cracked, peeling skin and flaming redness that you're advised to put up with until your skin 'gets used to it'.
What you're getting used to is the gradual removal of layers of skin. The euphemism that's used in retinol skin care is 'encouraging cell turnover'. But yes, actually retinol is so harsh that it peels off layers of skin. The aim is that if you can last that out - the advice is it takes about 24 weeks - you'll be on the road to having younger looking skin.
There's no doubt that when the flaming redness and discomfort caused by retinoid products calms down, skin can look plumper with more skin clarity and reduced pore size.
After all, you've just 'skinned' off your top layer.
From what you read though, any improvements will last about a year. After that, skin can revert to what it was before, sometimes worse.
This is because there’s no actual positive change in the skin structure, just a temporary effect that is forced to occur when skin is highly irritated.
Advice given then is to increase the percentage of acid - and presumably then go through 24 weeks of redness, peeling and pain again.
Worrying retinol fact 1.
Retinol makes sun exposed skin age faster - even when sunscreen is applied.
Advice about negative side effects of retinol products always stresses to be particularly careful about always using sunscreen during the day:
This product increases the risk of extreme sunburn; care should be taken (shade, sunscreen, etc.) to protect treated skin from overexposure to ultraviolet light.
Surely though, a layer of sunscreen isn't enough to stand between a nuclear furnace in the sky and skin that has literally been 'peeled' or is in the process of doing so.
Dermatologist Dr Debra Jaliman agrees that sunscreen is not an invisible armour that will protect retinol treated skin from sun damage.
Dr Jaliman says, "This new skin is delicate and should not be exposed to the sun."
Dr Jaliman's point is that the combination of using retinol and going outside will have the "opposite effect of anti-ageing" and will "make skin age faster because it is more susceptible to the sun, no matter the amount of SPF protection promised on the foundation or sunscreen."
Dr Jaliman refers to using retinol during the day. Retinol is supposed to be used only at night with advice given to mask skin with sunscreen during the day. For years now though cosmetic companies have ignored this and there's a slew of 'daytime' retinol products available.
Even if retinol is used only at night, it is still working actively on skin during the day to remove layers of skin.
At Simplicité, we're concerned that increasing the risk of extreme sunburn in our sun-drenched country is taking the risk of fixing a wrinkle but at the same time possibly replacing it with a skin cancer in the future.
Worrying fact 2.
Retinol thins the skin.
There's no doubt it does, that's why it's prescribed for acne - to 'unblock' pores.
Articles such as this are easily found online: 'Retin A will and does thin your skin but it's worth it for good skin.' (How can thin skin be 'good' skin? Thin skin is fragile and highly susceptible to ageing.)
Doctors know that retinol can cause thinning of the skin. They issue warnings that patients who are using the drug are not to use wax to remove hair. This is because;
"The wax will, when removed, pull off the top level of epithelium (skin) with it, leaving a red, inflamed, sore mark for several days".
The natural skin care, anti-ageing alternative to retinol
Vitamin A applied to the skin behaves differently from vitamin A ingested in the form of food.
As a restructuring, multi-nutritive alternative we suggest that in addition to using our Basic Six products, adding any of our high-activity serums, particularly RL (Reduce Lines) Serum and Results Lift Gel, also using the natural vitamin C mask-exfoliator Rosehip and Lavender Complexion Refiner 2-3 times weekly.
Over the same amount of time that is recommended to 'get used' to the harsh side effects of retinol, effective nutrients in the above products smooth skin and reduce lines. Continuing to use these gentle and nutritive products continues to build results for younger and vital looking skin - all without any harsh effects such as retinol's peeling, stripping and burning.
How natural skin care anti-ageing results work
We use only plant, herbal and flower extracts containing provitamin A to soothe and nurture skin. We don't use factory produced synthetic vitamin A that strips and burns skin to give a temporary anti-ageing result.
With the following sorts of compounds found in plant extracts being researched further and further for their anti-ageing benefits, why would we look elsewhere?
Simplicité’s products contain important actives - these compounds found in medicinal quality citrus extracts (and other plants), inhibit the breaking down of collagen and elastin in the skin.
Compounds found in the essential oils of Lemon, Orange, Lime, Mandarin, and Rose Geranium, have been shown to display remarkable rejuvenating properties. A study showed a significant decrease in the number and length of wrinkles around the eyes. 84% of the subjects considered that the treatment had a positive effect on fine wrinkles. The size of ‘open’ pores was also significantly reduced.
Published evidence says that a compound found in the essential oils of Rose Geranium, Cinnamon, Vietnamese Rosewood, Birch leaf (OneStep Exfoliating Cleanser) is an active antioxidant (slows ageing), anti-inflammatory, and for those with sensitive skin it relieves pain.