May 12 2017 - Skin Care 101
Why Hyaluronic acid won't help skin06 March 2016
You'll never find Hyaluronic cid (also known as Sodium Hyaluronate) in a Simplicité product. That's because we believe it is a fake ingredient, one that has been given importance that it doesn't have and that gives skin no long lasting improvement.
No wonder women over 40 complain about their skin starting to age rapidly. Most beauty brands use Hyaluronic Acid (HA) as a main ingredient in 'anti-ageing' products. Weirdly they generally promote it like this:
"Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the body & generally decreases with age. In the skin it exists in the epidermis & keeps the skin hydrated & supple due to its high water retention ability." (Description for Australian made 'Advanced Anti-Ageing' Serum)
I say weirdly, because apparently you'll take years off your skin just by rubbing Hyaluronic Acid onto it.
That doesn't make sense.
There are two types of Hyaluronic acid. One is a by-product of the abattoir industry in China. Yes, really. And the ‘vegetarian suitable’ version of Hyaluronic acid that the natural and organic skin care ranges use is no better. It's made from genetically modified, soil-borne, Bacillus subtilis bacteria.
More on these later, but first, why do all these skin care ranges use Hyaluronic acid if both versions come from such disgusting sources? What's supposed to be the benefit for skin?
Hyaluronic Acid in skin decreases as we age
Hayaluronic Acid is found in our bodies, as a molecule in the epidermis. In our bodies it helps to moisturise our skin because it can retain its weight in water up to 1000 times. That's how it also works to promote collagen production and plump up skin. So, in our bodies, Hyaluronic Acid is very important in helping skin to have a smooth, plump feel and look. As skin ages its cells begin to lose the ability to retain and naturally produce Hyaluronic Acid. As a result skin and facial features can lose volume and lines and wrinkles can begin to appear.
The skin care marketing angle is that apparently using skin care products that contain Hyaluronic Acid will somehow help our skin to look younger.
Hyaluronic acid doesn't work in skin care - or anything else
Just like collagen, which is manufactured, again in China, from the skin, muscle, bones and tendons of cows, Hyaluronic Acid is an animal source product which skin can't absorb. It just sits there. By contrast, skin is easily able to absorb plant extracts and if these are high quality and concentrated the skin can improve and be more able to resist negative change such as sun damage and early ageing.
Hyaluronic Acid is made in disgusting ways
It's a by-product of the Chinese abattoir industry, made from boiled up rooster's combs, also animal eyeballs or other animal tissue such as bits of giblets.
Hyaluronic Acid made in this way is described on skin care product labels as a 'natural' ingredient.And practically all skin care ranges (not Simplicité) use it in their products.
There is also a 'vegetarian-suitable' version of HA which is widely used in organic and natural skin care ranges. This comes from an even more awful source.
Promoted as being 'derived from ‘lactic acid fermentation in wheat’, this version is made in China by fermenting Streptococcus zooepidemicus bacteria.
This bacteria is very commonly found in bowel and respiratory infections in horses. Now that you know how this muck is derived, why would you ever put it on your skin?
Hyaluronic Acid can make skin look worse
Those who formulate skin care products that contain Hyaluronic acid may have missed an important additional bit of information: that using Hyaluronic Acid in a skin care product does nothing to improve skin in the long term. In fact, the presence of Hyaluronic Acid in epithelial tissue has been shown instead to promote keratinocyte proliferation.
(Reference - Tammi R, et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1989, 92: 326-332. )
Keratin cells are the flaky cells you see on sun damaged human skin. So if you happen to have sun damaged skin, using Hyaluronic Acid will make it look worse over time—even though the initial temporary effect is to plump up fine lines.
It's a filler
Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) is the main ingredient in Restylane injections. It's used as a filler because of its jelly-like consistency which is ideal to 'plump' out skin - that is, fill it with a gel. This is a temporary fix - permanent types of fillers are also used though these can apparently cause problems if the gel moves from its original position.
So it seems that skin care that claims Hyaluronic Acid improves skin may be using creative marketing. And as for the 'organic' brands - it seems that they're saying that dead animal extracts and horse-flu bacteria extract are - organic!
At Simplicité, when we say 'natural' we mean as made by a Herbalist. We wouldn't ever use these Chinese factory made, apparently natural and vegetarian-suitable extracts.
Not just because they're from awful origins, but also, because they simply don't improve skin. We have 25 years of stunning results to show that what improves the skin is our antioxidants and active herbal principles.